Matt Pagan from Los Angeles, CA, is our Freaky Guy. It's his first year on the WQS and he didn't managed to get his ticket for a seeding on the Triple Crown but remains an alternate of the event. He is still in house with Nate Yeomans, qualified for the new Dream Tour and Austin Ware who is still watching for one last ticket to the Dream. I called "Freaky" Matt to know how is the life of the alternate
Freaksurf Magazine : Have you ever been to Hawaii before ?
Matt Pagan : I've been going to Hawaii for the past 3 or 4 years now. My family has a house across the street from Log Cabins on the North Shore. I'm really stoked!
FSM : You come from Los Angeles, how do you feel with those hawaiian gnarly waves ?
MP : Coming from LA to Hawaii is quite a change. Back home the waves are mostly rippable and user friendly. Although Hawaii can be rippable, the waves there have a lot of power and it is definitely a test of your abilities.
FSM : Have you ever been feared in such big waves ?
MP : When the waves get gnarly, I definitely get nervous. But it can be a good nervous. It's what makes surfing fun sometimes.
FSM : What does the Triple Crown represent to you ?
MP : The Triple Crown is at the top of the "to do list" for next year. It's such a respected series of events that displays the world's best surfers in some of the world's heaviest and best waves. I can't wait to get there!
FSM : Can you tell us about this first WQS season, Toby Martin said it's a gladiator arena. How is it to be a rookie ?
MP : This year has definitely been an eye opener. I learned a lot about traveling, the judging criteria, budgets, and competition in general. I wouldn't consider it as my rookie year, I started traveling mid way through the year but it is definitely a dog fight out there. You really have to have that desire and confidence to achieve your goals. Above all, surfing is a blessing and you got to enjoy it!
FSM : You didn't grab enough points to have a seeding, how is the life of an alternate ?
MP : Life as an alternate isn't so bad. I don't think I will be getting into this year's event but it's awesome to be around the scene watching and learning from the guys that do well. Don't get me wrong I would love to be in the event, but I definitely want to take this time to learn from the boys and get some practice in!
FSM : You're in the same house in Hawaii, with Nate Yeomans who is qualified for the Dream Tour next year, Austin Ware who fights for one of the last place. Can you tell us about your vision of those situations and the relationships between all those guys.
MP : Nate and Austin are prime examples of hard work pays off. Those guys are great people to look up to. I'm so stoked for Nate that he has qualified for next year. I didn't really know him that well until this season, but everyone is getting along really well. Austin has a solid chance at making it also. He's the man, he deserves to make it. I'm really stoked to be staying with the boys. I've learned a lot from them.
FSM : What's a typical day for an alternate in the Triple Crown?
MP : So far, the typical day has just been surfing a bunch. I've been doing some stretching and training too.
FSM : What's the most intersting for you on the Triple Crown ?
MP : The whole thing is pretty mind boggling. To be the Triple Crown Champ is one of the most well respected things you can do in your surfing career.
FSM : Whose riders inspire you the most in those waves ?
MP : Sunny Garcia is always fun to watch. He surfs super aggressive, it's sick! Parko and Fanning are also some of my favorites.
FSM : A word on the legends, Derek Ho, Sunny or Shane Beschen who rides a 5"11 !
MP : They all kill it. Derek Ho is a past world champ and still charges. Sunny Garcia seems to be more focused than ever, I see him training all the time and the Beschens are always out when the waves get gnarly.
FSM : You made a trip in Tahiti this year (that we gonna diffuse), what are the diiference with Hawaii ?
MP : Tahiti and Hawaii are pretty similar. In terms of the ocean, they both lay in the middle of the Pacific Ocean and are very susceptible to big swells. The culture is pretty similar as well. Although Hawaii is more of a surfing mecca because of how popular of a surf destination it is, the same Aloha respectful spirit is present in both places.
Interview Johann Mouchel / Freaksurf Mag - Photo Credit : Joe Foster
