What are surfers doing in and out of the water during a surf event ?
The answer with Matt Pagan ...
People always wonder what are the pro surfers doing during a contest. I mean, in and out of the water... To answer this question I spend a week with my mate Matt Pagan, during the Protest Vendée Pro France 4 stars, which took place in la Sauzaie Beach.
The best answer is a photo report, and the words and the main actor himself, Matt Pagan...
"During events on the WQS, there is a lot of free time in between heats and even when you're not free surfing.
Last April my good friend Jason Harris and I went to Bretignolles Sur Mer, France for a 4 Star WQS event at La Sauzaie. During our free time we decided to check out the town and cruise around France.
We met up with the famous frenchman, a real "Freaky" guy named Johann Mouchel (Freaksurf Magazine).
Because the waves were pretty much flat everywhere besides the waves at the event, we spent a lot of our time reading in our hotel room (the L'Atlantic), messing around on the internet, eating baguettes and ice cream, going to the French nightclubs and walking around town, soaking in the French culture. France is really an amazing place and even though the ocean didn't offer much to surf, we really had a great time experiencing a place we don't often get to see.
La France est impressionnante!"
Matt Pagan
Photo credit : Johann Mouchel / Freaksurf Mag
Shaka!
I have a lot of great boards. Robert Weiner is my main shaper and he shaped me a board called
the "Black Dumptruck." The board works amazing and helped me get through my first round heat.
I've been riding for Katin for the past 3 years and I'm stoked! They have a solid foundation and
will always be apart of the surf culture.
Eating Baguettes!
Mi casa es su casa! Oh wait, that's spanish..
The "off time." Doesn't get too much better !
Reading is something that I just recently realized I enjoy doing. Back in school, I highly
disliked it. But now, I love getting lost in a book.
Fins, I just recently discovered, are really important to maximize a surfboard's performance.
Checking my fins...
La Sauzaie is a really fun and rippable wave. Picking the right board is ideal to doing
well in the event.
Making sure the airlines didn't ding up my board...
Packing away!
This is a great photo. I just fit all my boards in our hatchback and I'm about to drive
manually. Something I rarely do because I barely know how!
This is Jason and me hanging out in front of the WQS event. Looking stoked right after
a good surf.
This is me hanging out with Bobby Morris from California and Glen Hall at the event.
Slicing one up at La Sauzaie. This was during my 1st round heat.
Ordering up some paninis!
Getting some ice cream!
My weakness...sweets!
This is me hanging out at the local panini restaurant. That place was amazing!
We ate there pretty much everyday
Hanging out with the boys after a big lunch!
This is Jason and me hanging in our hotel room at L' Atlantic.
Reading Mere Christianity by C.S. Lewis.
Matt Pagan with his board
This is me doing a warrior pose with my two magicsticks
Watch out Johann!
Jason is good friend of mine. We're always laughing and having a good time!
This was our means of transportation. Good thing Jason knew how to drive a
manual car, it would have been a scary experience if he didnt!
This is Jason and me getting all pshyched up to go rip out at La Sauzaie
This is me freesurfing at a fun beachbreak in between heats. Thanks Johann!
Jason Harris is a really cool kid. He's mellow, well spoken and he's got
an amazing style. Really fun to travel with.
My favorite board for La Sauzaie would definitely be the "Black Dumptruck."
It was amazing to see how old some of the wine was.
Wine tasting, Cheers mate!
